Ithaca, also known as Ithaki, is a small and beautiful island in the Ionian Sea, Greece. Known worldwide as the homeland of Homer’s legendary hero, Odysseus, Ithaca is a place rich in history, mythology, and serene natural beauty. Located just east of Kefalonia and west of the Greek mainland, Ithaca remains relatively unspoiled by mass tourism, making it an ideal destination for those seeking tranquility, cultural depth, and scenic landscapes.
Geography and Landscape
Ithaca covers an area of about 96 square kilometers (37 square miles) and has a coastline of approximately 100 kilometers (62 miles). Despite its small size, the island offers a diverse landscape, with mountains, green valleys, crystal-clear waters, and secluded beaches. The island is roughly divided into two parts connected by a narrow isthmus at Aetos, creating a distinct northern and southern region.
Mountains and Hills: The island’s highest peak is Mount Neriton, also known as Anogi (about 806 meters or 2,644 feet), located in the northern part of Ithaca. The rugged hills and rocky terrain offer stunning views of the Ionian Sea and surrounding islands, and the island’s mountains are dotted with pine and cypress forests.
Beaches and Coves: Ithaca has numerous beautiful, pebbly beaches, many of which are secluded and accessible only by boat. Popular beaches include Filiatro, Sarakiniko, Gidaki, Dexa, and Aspros Gialos. These beaches are known for their clear, turquoise waters and quiet, unspoiled settings, offering a perfect escape for beach lovers and nature enthusiasts.
Olive Groves and Vineyards: The island’s landscape is adorned with olive groves, vineyards, and orchards. Olive trees are a significant part of the island’s culture and economy, as many families still produce olive oil using traditional methods.
History and Mythology
Ithaca’s history and cultural significance are deeply intertwined with Greek mythology. The island is famously known as the home of Odysseus, the hero of Homer’s epic poem, The Odyssey. According to the tale, Odysseus spent 10 years on a perilous journey back to Ithaca after the Trojan War, symbolizing endurance, resilience, and the longing for home.
Archaeological Sites: Numerous archaeological findings on Ithaca provide evidence of ancient settlements dating back to the Mycenaean period (1600–1100 BCE). Some believe that certain sites, such as the Palace of Odysseus at Pilakopata, may be linked to Homer’s hero, though this is still debated by historians. Other ancient sites include Alalcomenae, an ancient town located on the island’s southern part, and the Cave of the Nymphs (or Marmarospilia), a site where Odysseus is said to have hidden his treasures upon his return.
Venetian Influence: During the medieval period, Ithaca was controlled by various powers, including the Byzantine Empire, the Normans, and eventually the Venetians. Under Venetian rule, Ithaca’s towns and villages flourished, and many architectural and cultural influences from this period remain evident.
Modern History: Ithaca faced significant hardships, particularly during the 1953 earthquake that devastated the Ionian Islands. Many of the island’s buildings were destroyed, and a large portion of the population emigrated. Despite these challenges, the island has retained its cultural heritage and traditional charm.
Main Towns and Villages
Ithaca’s population is approximately 3,000 residents, with most people living in small, scenic villages scattered across the island.
Vathy: The capital and largest settlement of Ithaca, Vathy, is a charming coastal town located on a deep natural harbor, one of the largest in the world. Vathy is known for its colorful Venetian-style houses, quaint cafes, and lively tavernas. The town also features the Archaeological Museum of Vathy, where visitors can see artifacts from the Mycenaean to the Roman periods, and the Folklore and Nautical Museum, showcasing Ithaca’s maritime history. Vathy is a favorite destination for yachters and sailors due to its sheltered harbor and scenic setting.
Kioni: Kioni is a picturesque fishing village in the northeastern part of the island, known for its traditional architecture, flower-filled alleys, and beautiful harbor dotted with sailboats. The village offers a range of waterfront restaurants, quaint shops, and guesthouses. Kioni is popular among visitors for its authentic charm and serene ambiance.
Stavros: Located in the northern part of the island, Stavros is the second-largest settlement on Ithaca and is often considered the heart of “Odysseus’s Ithaca.” The village is known for its Statue of Odysseus and proximity to archaeological sites linked to the legendary hero. It has a few traditional tavernas, shops, and a small museum displaying artifacts found in the area. Stavros provides a panoramic view of the island’s rugged landscape and the sea beyond.
Anogi: One of the oldest villages on Ithaca, Anogi is located high in the mountains and is known for its Byzantine Church of the Dormition of the Virgin, which dates back to the 12th century. The village also features ancient monolithic stones, known as menhirs, which add a mystical atmosphere to the area. Anogi is a great place to experience the island’s traditional lifestyle and offers panoramic views.
Culture and Local Traditions
Ithaca’s culture is marked by a strong sense of community, hospitality, and a connection to its ancient past. The island’s residents take pride in their heritage, and traditional values are woven into daily life.
Festivals and Celebrations: Ithaca hosts several traditional festivals throughout the year, including religious celebrations like the Feast of Panagia (the Assumption of the Virgin Mary) on August 15th in Anogi. The island also celebrates its Return to Ithaca Festival, honoring the legendary return of Odysseus with music, dance, and reenactments.
Local Cuisine: Ithacan cuisine is based on simple, flavorful ingredients, such as olive oil, fresh vegetables, seafood, and goat cheese. Traditional dishes include bourdetto (a spicy fish stew), tserepa (meat or seafood cooked in a clay pot), and rosto (pork cooked with garlic and wine). Honey and herbs are also staples of Ithacan cooking, and local tavernas offer these traditional flavors with fresh, local ingredients.
Tourism and Attractions
Though Ithaca is quieter than some of the larger Ionian Islands, it has gained popularity as a peaceful and scenic destination, especially among travelers interested in culture, history, and nature.
Hiking Trails: Ithaca’s network of trails offers stunning views of the Ionian Sea, rugged mountains, and hidden coves. Popular trails lead to archaeological sites, remote beaches, and high vantage points. Hiking in Ithaca allows visitors to experience the island’s untouched natural beauty and connect with its ancient past.
Beaches: Ithaca’s beaches are known for their crystal-clear waters and tranquility. Gidaki Beach is one of the island’s most beautiful beaches, accessible by boat or a challenging hike, and offers pristine, turquoise waters and white pebbles. Dexa Beach is a favorite for its calm waters and historical significance, as legend claims that it is where Odysseus returned to Ithaca. Other secluded beaches, such as Sarakiniko and Aspros Gialos, provide serene spots for swimming and relaxation.
Archaeological Sites: Visitors to Ithaca can explore several archaeological sites linked to Homer’s Odyssey. The Cave of the Nymphs is an ancient site associated with Odysseus, where he is said to have hidden his treasures. The remains of Alalcomenae, an ancient acropolis, offer insight into Ithaca’s ancient past, and the Palace of Odysseus site at Pilakopata invites travelers to imagine the island’s mythical history.
Flora and Fauna
Ithaca’s natural environment is home to a variety of flora and fauna, contributing to its lush, Mediterranean landscape.
Flora: The island’s vegetation includes olive and cypress trees, wild herbs like thyme and rosemary, and flowering shrubs. In spring, the landscape is covered with wildflowers, creating a vibrant and aromatic environment.
Fauna: Ithaca is home to a variety of bird species, including migratory birds that use the island as a stopover. Small mammals, reptiles, and sea life are also abundant, with the surrounding waters providing habitat for fish, dolphins, and occasionally monk seals.
Practical Information and Accessibility
Getting There: Ithaca does not have an airport, so most visitors reach the island by ferry. Ferries connect Ithaca to Kefalonia, as well as to the mainland from the port of Patras and Astakos. Many visitors fly into Kefalonia and then take a short ferry ride to Ithaca.
Transportation: Ithaca’s small size makes it easy to explore by car or scooter. Public transportation is limited, so renting a vehicle is recommended for those who wish to explore the island fully.
Accommodation: Ithaca offers a variety of accommodations, from boutique hotels and family-owned guesthouses to luxury villas. While the options are not as extensive as on larger islands, they provide a cozy and welcoming atmosphere that aligns with the island’s relaxed, low-key vibe.
Summary
Ithaca is a captivating destination, rich with history, mythology, and natural beauty. Known as the legendary home of Odysseus, the island offers visitors a unique mix of scenic landscapes, tranquil beaches, and a deep cultural heritage. Its small towns and villages, unspoiled by mass tourism, provide an authentic Greek island experience that is perfect for travelers looking to escape the hustle and bustle.
With its breathtaking views, welcoming locals, and a history that dates back to ancient times, Ithaca captures the spirit of adventure and the timeless allure of the Greek islands, making it a true hidden gem in the Ionian Sea.